Designer Precious Metal Jewelry | Chris Ploof Designs

Gold is malleable, durable, hypoallergenic, and tarnish-resistant. 24 karat is the gold standard and represents gold in its purest form (99.9+% pure gold). Although pure gold possesses a highly desirable deep, full yellow color, it is too soft to effectively be used for making rings. Therefore, alloying pure gold with other metals improves its mechanical properties such as strength and durability. Typically, 18K gold is composed of 75% pure gold and 25% other metals while 14K gold contains 58.33% pure gold and 41.67% other metals. Palladium, nickel, silver, and copper are alloyed with pure gold to create a variety of colored golds. For example, adding copper imparts a reddish, pink hue while adding silver results in a greener shade of yellow. Alloying not only changes the properties and color of gold, but also the cost. Generally, using lower cost alloying metals results in lower pure gold content and, thus, lower overall cost. Chris Ploof Designs offers 18K yellow gold, 18K palladium white gold, as well as 14K red gold.

White gold is an alloy made by adding at least one white metal such as nickel, palladium, or silver to pure gold. 18K white gold is a mix of 75% pure gold and 25% white metal. Chris Ploof Designs offers both 14K and 18K white gold alloyed with palladium. The 14K palladium white gold provides a cool, gray tint, whereas 18K palladium white gold appears lighter, whiter. Palladium white gold alloys are soft and pliable. Compared to nickel white gold, palladium white gold is hypoallergenic and holds its white color better. Palladium white gold is a good choice for white gold gemstone settings.

Red gold is a gold and copper alloy with a distinctive reddish color. It is also known as pink or rose gold. Typically, 18K red gold is composed of 75% pure gold, 21% copper, and 4% pure silver while 14K red gold contains 58.33% pure gold and 41.67% copper. Higher karat red gold alloys (18K or higher) are lighter in color than lower karat alloys (14K) because there is more pure gold (yellow) than copper (red). In other words, the higher the copper content, the deeper and richer the red hue. Chris Ploof Designs offers 18K red gold. Red gold can be used to complement colored diamonds. From a price perspective, red gold is similar to the more traditional and common yellow gold.

Platinum (Pt) possesses a brilliant white luster. Platinum will not tarnish and is extremely durable. Platinum is a neutral metal and is an alternative for those who have skin sensitivities to other metals. Platinum purity is given relative to 1000 parts. Thus 950 platinum contains 950 parts platinum out of 1000; it is 95% pure platinum with either iridium or ruthenium added to impart hardness. Lower purity platinum alloys (90% and below) may change the color of the platinum or lower its durability. Platinum and white gold are similar in color. However, platinum is more durable and lightweight than white gold and has a higher resistance to tarnish and scratches. Platinum will scratch, but no material is lost as is the case with gold. More importantly, over time, platinum will not wear away or wear down, as does gold. For engagement rings, platinum’s luster is a perfect complement to the brilliance of a diamond. As a gemstone setting, platinum does not wear away and holds gemstones firmly and securely.

Palladium (Pd) is a member of the platinum group. Palladium is lightweight, durable, hypoallergenic, and resists tarnishing. Palladium is considered a white metal, although it appears light gray in color compared to sterling silver or 14K white gold. Chris Ploof Designs uses two types of Palladium: 950 Palladium (950 Pd) and Palladium 500 (Pd500). The 950 palladium alloy is a mixture of pure palladium (95%) and another platinum group metal, ruthenium (5%). Palladium 500 is an alloy comprised of 50% Palladium with the remainder being Silver and Copper. Palladium can be used as a replacement for platinum or white gold. Compared to platinum, palladium is lighter in weight, harder, and much less expensive. Palladium, like platinum, is much more durable than white gold.

Because fine silver (99.9% pure) is so soft and malleable, it is rarely used for jewelry. By mixing silver with other metals, the resulting alloy is stronger while preserving both the ductility of the silver as well as the high precious metal content. Common sterling silver is made from a mixture of fine silver (92.5%) and copper (7.5%). Aesthetically, sterling silver has the bright white look of white gold, but at a fraction of the cost. Compared to white gold or platinum, palladium-enhanced sterling silver is a more affordable alternative for channels or liners on rings by Chris Ploof Designs.

Chris Ploof Designs offers distinctive precious metals Mokume Gane compositions that INare made and patterned by Chris in our studio. The two- and three-tone color combinations represent a carefully selected variety of contrasting and subtle colors that are certain to meet both the personal style and taste of the most discerning wedding, engagement and commitment ring customers. Contrasts can be seen in the Mokume Gane compositions that showcase yellow and red golds against more monochromatic colors.

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The combination of head, heart and hands defines where everything comes together. Chris Ploof Designs does more than check boxes and steer consumer choices. We blend thought and emotion with our materials to create the most unique designs. When entrusted with the single-most important symbol of a union between two people—a ring—we believe every one should be as unique as the love it represents. It is no mere token: It is what shows the world the value of your bond. We take commitments seriously. We value the people who love our work: connoisseurs, tastemakers, geek chic nerds, individuals who value more than status quo.

At Chris Ploof Designs we are crafting a new tradition in jewelry. We don't strive to be different. We just are. With everything we make we have longevity in mind—not temporary fads or trends. We use ancient techniques to create timeless designs.
We forge meteorite—truly out of this world! We fuse luscious color combinations of gold, palladium, and platinum to create the most sensual wood-grain patterns known to jewelry making—mokume gane. Most famously, we have evolved the strength and beauty of ancient sword-making metals to create our own proprietary formula of bio-compatible stainless steel Damascus. Within a quarter century our combined skills have made Chris Ploof Designs the leading industry supplier of Damascus steel and mokume gane for both raw materials and finished products.
Our expertise is knowing how to make jewelry that will last a lifetime and beyond. We use the best materials because our overarching goal is to deliver heirloom quality. All of our jewelry is handcrafted with its lifetime in mind so you and your family will enjoy our designs forever. That is legacy.

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After traveling the world trying hands-on careers that spoke to his historical influences and technical skills, Chris found himself back on his boyhood path, attempting to make a forge improvised by a 55 gallon drum, some fire bricks, and a hair dryer. Eventually his knowledge seeking led him to jewelry making classes. At last, he was home.

Chris has studied with many well-known artists, and apprenticed under a master goldsmith. He has an insatiable curiosity and drive that lead him down long roads even after the challenges at hand have been met. “Impossible is only a temporary condition,” he likes to say. “If my customer wants a Damascus bathtub, we will make it for them!” This intense drive is balanced with a wry, wonderful sense of humor that is one of his greatest assets when things don't go as planned. “Sometimes my best discoveries come from my biggest mistakes,” he admits.
The Santa Fe Symposium has chosen Chris twice to receive the Industry Leader Award. His work appears on the cover of Showcase 500 Rings: New Directions in Art Jewelry (Lark, 2012), and he has been featured in countless other publications.

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Our engineer ensures your Damascus, mokume gane, meteorite, or precious metal jewelry piece will be durable and stand the test of time.
Our craftspeople make each design to the high-quality standards Chris demands.
Our finishing expert brings out the beauty of the material allowing it to radiate from every angle.
Our stone setter ensures that all stones are set to bring out the brilliance nature intended.

A quality inspection is the final step, just before the jewelry is shipped to you. In the end, your jewelry is crafted using as many as 50 steps per item. Some pieces take well over 500 steps! The team we have assembled at Chris Ploof Designs comprises the best of the best—true experts in the field of jewelry making.

Naked Damascus

Precious Damascus

Mokume Gane

Meteorite

Our meteorite rings are made exclusively from pieces of the Gibeon meteorite. The Gibeon flamed into our atmosphere as a visible star-like streak an estimated 30,000 years ago. The extreme slow cooling of its journey through deep space created a unique crystalline pattern (Widmanstatten lines) throughout the resulting meteorite.

We cut, forge and fabricate our meteorite, combine it with platinum, gold or mokume gane to form an extremely strong, durable and exquisite ring with a comfort-fit interior. During the final stages of crafting our rings, the meteorite is etched to enhance the Widmanstatten pattern, which is random and beautiful, and unique to each ring.