What Is Mokume Gane and How Is It Used in Jewelry?

Mokume Gane (Mo-KOO-may GAH-nay) is an old metalworking technique that originated in Japan in the 1700s. The words translate to “wood eye metal,” which accurately describes the topographical patterns that appear when metals are twisted and forged using this process. The look is similar to the swirling, watery patterns of Damascus steel or ancient Chinese lacquer work. Though the technique was initially developed for use in sword making, jewelry and hollowware are the most common modern commercial applications of this method.

Japanese craftsman Denbei Shoami (1651-1728) is credited with the invention of Mokume Gane for embellishing samurai weapons and hilts. The process was only used in sword making until the 19th century. Changes in Japan’s political and social structure in the late 1800s saw the collapse of the caste system dominated by the samurai warriors. They were no longer allowed to carry their katana (sword) in public so demand for these arms decreased. Metalsmiths then began transferring their skills to create more artistic products.

The husband and wife team of Eugene Michael Pijanowski and Hiroko Sato Pijanowski brought Mokume Gane to the United States in the early 1970s. They learned the technique from ninth generation metalsmith Norio Tamagawa.

Today, Mokume Gane jewelry, flatware, hollowware and art objects are created by layering precious and semi-precious metals such as Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Sterling Silver, Shibuichi, Shakudo and Copper. The layers are bonded and deformed by rolling, forging, and twisting. A combination of techniques including punches, chiseling, carving, and surface abrasion exposes the beauty of the work: the unique layering of these metals. A Mokume Gane artisan can make an unlimited number of distinct patterns with no two being precisely the same.

The resulting bonded stack of alloy sheets is called a billet.

The Mokume Gane billet is forged and when the billet has been flattened. When the billet has been flattened, a portion is cut off with a jeweler’s saw. Then, the Mokume Gane rod is repeatedly annealed and rolled into a series of progressively smaller square cross-sections. The entire process that starts with flattening the billet requires 10 to 12 individual forging, annealing, and rolling operations until the final square cross-section is achieved.

The Mokume Gane rod is then twisted in a multi-step process. This process of twisting with annealing in between is repeated 4 to 8 times until the desired number of twists is achieved. At this point, the rod is rolled into a square shape.

The Mokume Gane rod is ready to be patterned through a metal removal process. After the preliminary metal removal, the rod is again forged followed by additional metal removal. This process of metal removal and rolling with annealing in between is repeated 3 to 4 times until the desired pattern is achieved.

The patterned rectangular Mokume Gane rod is rolled to the final length and thickness. A flat ring blank is cut. The ends of the ring blank are brought together and soldered.

For flush set diamond or other gemstones a hole is drilled through the surface of the ring at the appropriate location. A setting tool is used to form a seat in the hole on which the gemstone will sit. The gemstone is placed in the hole and is pressed onto the seat. A special tool is used to move a small amount of metal over the top edge of the gemstone all the way around; this action sets the gemstone in place. As a final step, the edges of the hole are cleaned up. Multiple flush set gemstones can be placed on a ring.

For channel set diamonds or other gemstones a groove on the surface of the ring using high-speed cutting tools. A seat is formed within the groove on which the gemstones will sit. Preliminary cleaning of the groove is performed to ensure uniformity. Then, the gemstones are set in the groove and pushed against the seat. A special tool is used to move a small amount of metal over the top edge of the gemstones; this action sets the gemstones in place. As a final step, the edges of the groove are cleaned up.

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The combination of head, heart and hands defines where everything comes together. Chris Ploof Designs does more than check boxes and steer consumer choices. We blend thought and emotion with our materials to create the most unique designs. When entrusted with the single-most important symbol of a union between two people—a ring—we believe every one should be as unique as the love it represents. It is no mere token: It is what shows the world the value of your bond. We take commitments seriously. We value the people who love our work: connoisseurs, tastemakers, geek chic nerds, individuals who value more than status quo.

At Chris Ploof Designs we are crafting a new tradition in jewelry. We don't strive to be different. We just are. With everything we make we have longevity in mind—not temporary fads or trends. We use ancient techniques to create timeless designs.
We forge meteorite—truly out of this world! We fuse luscious color combinations of gold, palladium, and platinum to create the most sensual wood-grain patterns known to jewelry making—mokume gane. Most famously, we have evolved the strength and beauty of ancient sword-making metals to create our own proprietary formula of bio-compatible stainless steel Damascus. Within a quarter century our combined skills have made Chris Ploof Designs the leading industry supplier of Damascus steel and mokume gane for both raw materials and finished products.
Our expertise is knowing how to make jewelry that will last a lifetime and beyond. We use the best materials because our overarching goal is to deliver heirloom quality. All of our jewelry is handcrafted with its lifetime in mind so you and your family will enjoy our designs forever. That is legacy.

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After traveling the world trying hands-on careers that spoke to his historical influences and technical skills, Chris found himself back on his boyhood path, attempting to make a forge improvised by a 55 gallon drum, some fire bricks, and a hair dryer. Eventually his knowledge seeking led him to jewelry making classes. At last, he was home.

Chris has studied with many well-known artists, and apprenticed under a master goldsmith. He has an insatiable curiosity and drive that lead him down long roads even after the challenges at hand have been met. “Impossible is only a temporary condition,” he likes to say. “If my customer wants a Damascus bathtub, we will make it for them!” This intense drive is balanced with a wry, wonderful sense of humor that is one of his greatest assets when things don't go as planned. “Sometimes my best discoveries come from my biggest mistakes,” he admits.
The Santa Fe Symposium has chosen Chris twice to receive the Industry Leader Award. His work appears on the cover of Showcase 500 Rings: New Directions in Art Jewelry (Lark, 2012), and he has been featured in countless other publications.

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Our engineer ensures your Damascus, mokume gane, meteorite, or precious metal jewelry piece will be durable and stand the test of time.
Our craftspeople make each design to the high-quality standards Chris demands.
Our finishing expert brings out the beauty of the material allowing it to radiate from every angle.
Our stone setter ensures that all stones are set to bring out the brilliance nature intended.

A quality inspection is the final step, just before the jewelry is shipped to you. In the end, your jewelry is crafted using as many as 50 steps per item. Some pieces take well over 500 steps! The team we have assembled at Chris Ploof Designs comprises the best of the best—true experts in the field of jewelry making.

Naked Damascus

Precious Damascus

Mokume Gane

Meteorite

Our meteorite rings are made exclusively from pieces of the Gibeon meteorite. The Gibeon flamed into our atmosphere as a visible star-like streak an estimated 30,000 years ago. The extreme slow cooling of its journey through deep space created a unique crystalline pattern (Widmanstatten lines) throughout the resulting meteorite.

We cut, forge and fabricate our meteorite, combine it with platinum, gold or mokume gane to form an extremely strong, durable and exquisite ring with a comfort-fit interior. During the final stages of crafting our rings, the meteorite is etched to enhance the Widmanstatten pattern, which is random and beautiful, and unique to each ring.